When did you first come here?

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A brief history of visitors to the Mani

Have you ever come across anyone who has been visiting or living in the area for decades and so has a slightly snobbish/condescending/almost arrogant attitude to anyone who has only recently discovered the area? You know, “I first came here in’57 before there was even a road from Kalamata” as an extreme example or maybe a milder “I remember Stoupa back in the late 1980’s- it was much different back then of course”. I’ve probably done this on occasion myself and I wonder what the motivation is? Probably a little “I know better than you” is involved, maybe an element of resentment that the foreigner population has exploded in the last couple of decades and so the secret is out and also perhaps the fact that it takes time for recent new arrivals to assimilate in a foreign country- making friends with locals, learning some Greek etc.

This is all, of course, a fairly recent phenomenon. Understandable to a degree but ultimately not necessary. The fact is that various characters have been visiting the area for literally centuries! And those who wrote down their experiences and observations provide us with invaluable historical and cultural insights. So this is the first part of a brief summary of this people. Part 2 to follow at a later date.

Part 1: Early and military visitors to the Mani

Visitors arrived in the Mani for many reasons—as travelers, researchers, diplomats, or military envoys—each drawn by the unique historical, cultural, or strategic significance of the region.

The earliest known visitor with the intent to document Mani was Pausanias, a doctor from Greek Asia Minor in the 2nd century A.D. Pausanias wrote a detailed guide to Greece’s historical monuments—buildings, statues, tombs—and explained their mythological, historical, and religious backgrounds. In his accounts, Kardamyli and Stoupa (formerly Leuktra) get brief mentions. In his time, Kardamyli was “a mile from the sea,” perched on a rocky acropolis still accessible to daring explorers today if you take the kalderimi up to Agia Sophia- good luck! Pausanias made literary connections, referencing Homer’s Iliad, which names Kardamyli as part of Agamemnon’s bribe to Achilles.

Leuktra featured a sanctuary of Athena with a statue (the head of which is in the Archeological museum in Kalamata) and a sacred wood of Love, both long lost today. He also noted Homeric “Enope,” once near modern Kambos on the hill of Zarnata, which during his time was called Gerenia. Pausanias described a bronze statue of Machaon, son of Asklepios—explaining a local coffee shop’s name. He did not limit himself to Outer Mani; instead, he ventured deep south through Thalames and Oitylon into Deep Mani. Pausanias detailed statues and shrines, finally reaching Cape Tainaron. There he described a shrine shaped like a cave with a statue of Poseidon, a bronze statue of Arion the musician riding a dolphin, and a magical pool said to reveal future reflections—lost after a local woman washed clothes there.

Centuries later, after surviving medieval times, Pausanias’s guide was a prime reference for visitors as Europe’s interest in Ancient Greece revived. Although it would be impossible to list all visitors over the last five centuries, a sample highlights shifts in purpose and perspective. It is still in print, published by Penguin Books.

Early visits were often tied to warfare. In 1618, envoys from the Duke of Nevers, a Byzantine Palaiologos descendant, responded to Maniat appeals for military aid. Though assistance never came, these envoys recorded valuable details, including village sizes measured by family counts: Oitylo housed 400 families; Kelefa, 300; Kastania, 150; Androuvista, 80; Tseria, 40; Nomia, 30; Kita, 80; and Lagia, 100. At that time, Oitylo was the largest village until a mass emigration about 57 years later when families like the Stephanopoli and Iatrani moved to Corsica and Tuscany.

 

“He called the Maniats “infidels” who drank excessively and “sleep like pigs. “

In 1670, the Ottoman Turkish army, accompanied by war historian Evliya Celebi, campaigned in Mani. As an enemy and Muslim, Celebi’s accounts were notably derogatory. He called the Maniats “infidels” who drank excessively and “sleep like pigs. (no wonder I’ve loved living here for so long- ed)” He criticized the terrain as stone-covered with no soil, no vineyards, gardens, or fruit trees. Water was scarce, only collected in cisterns. Villages were recorded by the number of houses: Doli and Proastio each with 300 tiled-roof houses; Androuvista had 1000; Milea 200; Platsa 45; Oitylo 1000; and Tsimova (Areopolis) 80. Celebi painted a vivid picture of Mani men as short, dark-skinned, with large heads, round eyes, shoulder-length thick black hair, slim bodies, broad feet, and agile like fleas.

Part 2 to follow, ending with Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor.

2 Comments

  1. Very interesting

    Reply
    • Thanks Eric. As I mentioned, Part 2 will follow in the near future.

      Reply

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