As the crow flies, there is less than 600m between the two church squares of Xanthianika and Kato Hora (both Milea villages) and yet on August 14^th, they both hosted their own Panigiria. I couldn’t remember this clash happening in the past but I could very easily have been wrong, so I popped up last night to see what was happening. I parked in the main square of Milea by the church of the Metamorphosis and walked up through a labyrinth of alleyways to get to Xanthianika. On the way I asked a couple sat in their dimly lit terrace if having two identical events so close to each other was normal – “Happens every year my friend- different churches” came the reply. Oh. Clearly I was wrong.

We’ve already covered two other panigiria in our news section (GAIA and Neochori) and this will be the last for the year. In Xanthianika, things were only just getting started. The roast pork/souvlaki queue was well formed and I recognised a few people already sat at their tables. I asked one friend why he chose this one over Kato Hora – “I didn’t know there was one there”. Despite it being significantly cooler up there in those beautiful mountains, the steep walk up had given me a thirst, so I sat and observed over a cold beer. Apologies to the village but the band were taking so long in sound checking (how much reverb does a clarinet really need?), I decided I had to head across town to venue number two, almost getting lost on the way back down as it was now fully dark. I hope they had a great night.

I’d been to the Kato Hora panigiri several times in days gone by and got to know a village elder, Nikos, who seemed instrumental in organising things. His friendliness and pride in his village lead to him inviting me up to his house one afternoon and I wrote an article on him back in the magazine days.

Having found somewhere to park (not easy), I walked down into a packed square and immediately spotted a table of friends, including other members of the Inside the Mani team. One of them told me they’d asked a Greek friend if it was the norm to have two events on the same night. The reply was this was a first. Hmm. Anyway, we ate and drank, the band kicked off and the dancing began, all observed by the statue of the famous poet, Nikitas Nifakos. I kept half an eye on the top of the church steps which was always Niko’s observation post. No sign and I feared the worst. I did the rounds of taking photos and sat back down again. Suddenly I clocked an elderly guy, slightly hunched with a walking stick, stroll right through the middle of the crowded proceedings. His face was unmistakable. It was so crowded I lost track of him- I just wanted to say hello and see if he remembered me. I knew his house was behind the souvlaki stand, so I asked a young guy grilling the meat if he’d seen him. “He’s gone to bed! He’s 96 now you know! Come back tomorrow”. Made my night.

s.

So, I’m still non the wiser as to whether this was a one-off or a regular, annual double header! Can anyone answer this question once and for all on the Forum? Thanks.